The Roller Coaster That Was New York Fashion Week
design: Revati Mahurkar
Everyone’s still talking about it.
by AVA SWIDLER ★ OCTOBER 25, 2023
Between the flop of Victoria's Secret to the breakout of a new designer at Helmut Lang, this year's New York Fashion Week was definitely one that will not be forgotten. The biggest week in the fashion industry is now over and here is what we have to say. Several runways took place in Milan, New York, London and Paris in this “fashion month”. There were almost an overwhelming number of shows to keep up with, but New York definitely takes the cake for the best and worst shows this season.
The infamous Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show has risen from the ashes… and not in a good way. The company is receiving a heavy amount of backlash from the public amidst their recent comeback. Rapper and singer, Lizzo, spoke out on X, formerly known as Twitter, stating, “if brands start doing this only because they've received backlash then what happens when the 'trends' change again?" The VS Chief Marketing Officer, Martin Walters, announced years ago in 2021 that they’re to be the new, “world’s leading advocate for women,'' and they only put themselves further from it. Their “fashion show” wasn't anything but a trailer for a documentary that came out on September 26th, and will be the final puzzle piece to whatever their goal was this year. At their show, they featured ex-VS angels, such as Naomi Cambel and Gigi Hadid, in an attempt to convince everyone that Victoria Secret is no longer a brand that adheres to the typical beauty standards. Very few were convinced and came to the conclusion that Victoria’s Secret is only trying to be inclusive because they weren’t making nearly as much revenue as they used to.
Next up is Tory Burch and Gucci, who rose from the fashion ashes and left us all speechless. Tory Burch had an amazing show filled with beautiful pieces such as the sparkle mesh mini dress and satin coat. Gucci was all about the accessories for me, I couldn't take my eyes off of their crystalised shoes, large variety of boots, sequined and beaded skirts, and cherry red bags. It’s confirmed that Gucci and Burch are back with a bang.
On an even higher note, after five long awaited years, Ralph Lauren has made their return to fashion week with much success. Seats to the show were filled with the most glamorous of stars, like Lopez, Moore, Keaton and Amanda Seyfried filling the first row, and Sophia Richie, Emma Roberts, and the Delevigne sisters behind them. It was a triumphant return to the spotlight, with their theme being inspired by the idea of a phoenix rising from the ashes. He went above and beyond using eco-friendly materials, highlighting the fact that fashion and sustainability can and should co-exist with one another. Ralph Lauren continues to celebrate diversity and inclusivity with his models and his show being nothing but that same standard. He exceeded expectations immensely and continues to be a leader in this industry; even after a five year hiatus.
The most anticipated show of the week was Helmut Lang's debut, with new designer, 32 year old Peter Do as the face. His line took 90s fashion and flipped it upside down into a modernized clothing line for everyone. Before Do, Lang was on the fashion decline and was becoming increasingly irrelevant in the fashion world. Their garments became uninteresting and bland, and brought the brand along with it. Luckily this is no longer the case. Do has fused an aesthetic of his own which makes it more unique than ever. This high-end luxury clothing brand is on the uprising, so keep an eye out for him.
There were plenty of incredible shows during this “fashion month”. Highlighting some honorable mentions, such as Sandy Liang, Willy Chavarria, and LaQuan Smith. These designers did an incredible job captivating what modern fashion should look like. All three designers incorporated dramatic silhouettes, new materials and diverse models.
New York's annual fashion week was definitely a roller coaster to say the least. The ups being new designers reviving slowly dying brands, the downs being the failures of a highly anticipated comeback, and the unexpected twists of new designers shining brighter than ones that have been around for decades.